Greypackers go forth

I think it was Sandi Toksvig who invented the word greypacker, to describe the silver haired pensioners who are now apparently taking the opportunity to spend the kids' inheritance on world travel. We didn't see too many others on our trip, although we were impressed by the two Geordies who after trekking around China were taking a tandem sky dive in Paihia in New Zealand to celebrate their retirement.

We've already commented on this blog about the people we've met and the places we've been to, but we wanted to say a few words of encouragement to anyone thinking of doing the same thing. Just do it! It's relatively straightforward, with a little planning, made easy by the net, and although it's not cheap, think how much you are saving by not being at home in the winter. We travelled around the world enjoying wonderful weather while Britain was suffering the worst winter for many years, widening our horizons and enhancing our perceptions of cultures and landscapes.

We took 22 flights, flying just under 34,000 miles in total, with a further 1,400 miles by train in the USA. We stayed in 45 different rooms during the trip - phew - and managed to leave behind just a few things from our constant moving on. Our RTW ticket, booked via Trailfinders, was a BA One World Explorer, which allows a total of 16 flights in the same direction. We only used 13 flights on this though as they count overland links as part of the total, which seems a little unfair. Added to this we booked a further nine internal budget flights in Australia, Thailand and India, some before we set off, others en route, which worked very well. Only one flight was delayed briefly but arrived on time. The booby prize must go to American Airlines for losing my luggage in LA. Flying in economy of course is something to be endured rather than enjoyed. To while away the waiting in airports we bought and borrowed lots of secondhand books which we passed on again and completed hundreds of Sudokus.

We discovered as greypackers that we prefer hotels to hostels. We like a comfortable space to chill out after a busy day, to recharge before we set off out again in the evening. Hostels couldn't really provide this as they were busy, hot and noisy and full of people wanting a good time, especially late at night. Although they could be cheap, a hostel private room could sometimes be as expensive as a reasonable hotel, as we could search out bargains on the net. Next time we'll probably book less hotels in advance as we've seen the rates to be had if you use the net at the last minute. At the same time if you're travelling solo then of course hostels are better, because you'll meet lots of people.

The backpacking bit is no problem, a very convenient way to carry your luggage, compared to the unwieldy twisting trolley cases which others drag around. Our Osprey backpacks weighed around 15kg each when loaded, which is surprisingly easy on your back. We perfected a speedy routine in airports at putting our backpacks into a strong dryliner sack to protect the straps from baggage belts. Having said that my dryliner sack split along the top edge towards the end which was disappointing.* We also used handy 20L nylon daysacks to carry on planes and use during the day generally.

We set off in October 2009 without coats, apart from a light rainproof anorak and found that if it got a little chilly - a rare occurrence on our travels - we just added an extra layer. I had several of these including a black thermal vest which I seem to remember dining out in in Chicago - tres chic or not? We got used to wearing the same clothes all the time - I had just two pairs of trousers and a sarong with me, as well a few tops and a fleece. We had a pair of trainers and sandals each. Both of us wear Rohan stuff which washes and dries very easily - our stretchy clothes line was one of the most useful items we took with us. I bought a long dress in Freemantle inspired by the many Aussies who were wearing these in the sun and also bought a few extra vest tops en route.

As I've said before we were very glad that we had the netbook with us, as wi-fi was available most of the time - often free, although you have to be aware of security risks. We did really appreciate the contact and comments from friends and family, which is great when you are so many miles from home. Skype is a truly wonderful invention for video contact and we used it also to make international telephone calls at a few pence a time.

Clothes and equipment weren't a problem but food was in a way. Self-catering is difficult when you are constantly travelling as you don't have the ingredients to cook meals and don't want to buy stuff and then carry it round with you. So consequently we ate almost every meal out which means that both Ralph and I have put on around a stone each - OK for Ralph but not for me. It's back to the diet now. Miraculously we escaped illness and injury the whole time.

I suppose the other problem was the heat. We had planned our journey to avoid cold weather and monsoons but in Australia and South East Asia the temperature was in the 30s all the time, which meant we couldn't do much walking or other activities in the sun and I had to protect myself constantly against the sun's rays, so it was a little restricting.

Another thing to consider was that while at home as a couple you might be apart doing various things in your daily life, whereas in contrast while you are travelling you are together probably 24 hours a day constantly. We managed this without coming to blows but you do have to consider activities which suit both of you where possible.

Certainly being away for such a long time has made us really appreciate the pleasures of living in York, apart from the wintry weather, but next time we would choose perhaps a shorter trip.
We really appreciated family members helping out with the house while we were away. The experience had given us the confidence to do it again while we can, so next time we'd like to see for example South America, Africa, the South Pacific islands and other parts of India.

*Update on dryliner sacks. When we got back we sent these back to the manufacturers for comment and today we received two replacements. So well done Trekmates. Next time we'll make sure we take some duck tape with us.