Green routes to Cluny

We're now at Cluny, not too far from our homeward pick-up point at Macon Nord on Sunday night. Over the last few days we've been using the Velo Voie Verte cycle path, which has transformed an old railway line into a green route for cyclists, walkers, horse riders and runners. It's quite brilliant for us, as it has a good wide asphalt surface and is mainly flat, but runs through some lovely countryside between Chalon and Macon. You can still see many of the little old station buildings. I'm relieved that we've managed to get to this point as I'm still a bit dizzy so we're keeping the mileage down. By the time we get back to Macon it will be just under 300 miles, using canal towpaths, railway paths, riverside paths, quiet country roads and occasionally menacing roads, with large lorries hurtling past.

Chambre d'hotes have been very varied, the last one at Buxy was the best, with views from our balcony over the vineyards (Ralph aspiring to a Badedas moment for those of you old enough to remember) and a swimming pool (sadly not used on this occasion).

Cluny is a busy town with many visitors attracted by the tenth century Benedictine Abbey here. After nearly two weeks of sunshine however we're now experiencing dramatic thunderstorms. We're in a fifteenth century town house in a large room full of antique furniture and strange beams. The owner, Luc, greeted us this morning as we arrived with the news of the Scottish referendum, which we were mightily relieved about. He also told us he was expecting several large mountain dogs - Leonburgs - because of a special event this weekend. Hopefully they won't all be there at breakfast. Luc was very proud to boast that the former French Prime Minister, Lional Jospin, had once stayed in the house.

Ralph achieved the ultimate in posing tonight when he persuaded me to go to a bookshop event to see a young author talk about his latest book, a novel about a young man with a love of Proust. We had to sit through an hour of French conversation before being allowed loose on the main attraction - free wine and nibbles. He owes me one for this!