Trunk call from Chiang Mai

Couldn't resist that although those of you under 50 probably won't know what we're talking about. Anyway we've had a very exciting day today. We started off with a jeep ride to the green, farm-filled hills north of Chiang Mai, and it was very pleasing to see the rice growing in the Thai countryside. We mounted our elephant, Big Mama, for a walk in the forest (you would have loved this Jane). It cost us a small fortune in green bananas, which people offered for the elephants along the way to keep them going. Then we dismounted and trekked through the forest to a delightful waterfall, where a few other tourists braver than us decided to go for a swim. After a delicious lunch at a local house (vegetable soup, fried rice with vegetables and fresh fruit), we were briefed about whitewater rafting. I think we thought it would be a pleasant glide down the river but it was actually hard work for two hours, as there were only the two of us in our boat paddling, apart from the steersman. It was very wet, rocky and splashy, but absolutely thrilling. A wonderful day.

After we returned to the town and had a meal we decided to sample one of the mysterious fish and feet spas which we'd seen around the place. This involves putting your feet in a tank full of small fish (garra rufa actually) while they nibble away at your dead skin. It's a way of exfoliating them and quite delicious, feels like a light electric shock but makes your feet and legs really smooth and improves circulation.

It's such a relief to be out of Bangkok. As the capital of the north, Chiang Mai is still busy but has a charming old town and night markets. Talking of which Ralph made the mistake of visiting the toilets in one of these and discovered a hotbed of nefarious activity, so in the words of the tabloids he had to quickly make his excuses and leave.

Chiang Mai has nothing like the deafening levels of traffic in the capital. After a while in Bangkok we had decided that the only way to stay cool and sane, away from the touts, was to wander around the flash air-conditioned shopping malls. On our last evening we went to see Avatar at the Imax in 3D, a spectacular experience. The film was a load of tosh really but most enjoyable and a good dig at the Americans.

Our hotel here is very comfortable, luxurious but cheap and on Saturday night we sat down at 10pm to watch Sunderland play. We could only last twenty minutes as they were being slaughtered by Chelsea, so once again it was depressing.

Ralph has booked a cooking course while we're here and I would like a massage but we still have lots of exploring to do. We've also booked an evening dinner cruise on the Mae Ping river. And today we booked a flight to Krabi Province in the south for next Thursday, where we might take advantage of some of the long-tailed boats to take us to the spectacular islands.