Goose gizzards and creepy mansions

At last we've reached the town of Agen, at the final stage of our French tour, having cycled just over 300 miles in two weeks. We're spending a couple of nights here before being picked up for the long journey back to the UK. Agen is halfway between Bordeaux and Toulouse and it's good to be in a town again after all the villages, however picturesque.

The vineyards around Bordeaux were replaced in the Lot region by endless fields of sweetcorn, presumably used for animal food. They must be subsidised by the EU as there are so many.

After Gourdon we stayed at Cazals, Monflanquin and Penne D'Agenais, all very attractive historic villages. At Cazals we strolled out for an evening meal but were told by the restaurant in la place that they were only serving 'le menu du jour' tonight, which was the usual goose gizzard starter and duck main course, no flexibility such as an omelette. The other restaurant was closed and the Casino supermarket had just ferme too so we began to think we were going to starve that evening, but luckily when we asked at the local bar they rustled up a lovely meal for us.

At Penne however the rains fell for the first time for a week and we had an uncomfortable time in our chambre d'hote there. I had rung up the madame the evening before to book it but when we arrived dripping from the rain the man at the door claimed no knowledge of our booking and said the room wasn't ready. Eventually we persuaded him to let us in. It was a large eighteenth century building but very dark and creepy, especially as we seemed to be on our own for most of our time there. Consequently we didn't get much sleep as it was more than a little scary and we were suspicious that the caretaker had bumped off the landlady after we had spoken to her - we've been reading too many books!